How refrigeration transformed our palates and our supply chain
In her book “Frostbite,” author and “Gastropod” podcast host Nicola Twilley introduces us to a host of characters connected to the invention of refrigeration and the development of what’s known as “the cold chain” — the network of refrigerated warehouses, trucks, shipping containers and more that keeps our food cold from farm to table. These innovators transformed our palates and our personal nutrition, making it possible for us to eat crisp apples in April and raw Japanese bluefin tuna in landlocked Ohio. In our latest podcast episode, we talk to Twilley about a few of those fascinating characters — a thrifty meat packer, a self-educated workaholic engineering whiz, a pioneering female chemist tackling food safety. But we only had so much time and her book is chock-full of interesting people.
We didn’t, for example, have time to talk about Jon Steinberg, who runs a website called Check Their Fridge, which promises to predict what it would be like to date someone based on the contents of their refrigerator. Peering inside people’s refrigerators is a staple of modern internet discourse, of course, from early tumblrs and blogs to mid-era food media publications, to modern day TikTok where wellness influencers proudly show off their “what’s in my fridge” reels.
But refrigerator contents, even from content creators, wellness gurus and celebrity chefs, are oftentimes aspirational; what you’ll primarily find inside people’s refrigerators, says Twilley, is future food waste. “It’s all too often a shameful food graveyard, filled with moldy berries and long-expired yogurt,” she notes.
This is just one of the many ironies or double-edged swords that Twilley uncovers in her deeply researched book. Refrigeration brings us the opportunity to try a greater variety of foods, but ends up contributing to a reduction in biodiversity, for example. It also presents the possibility of extending the life of our perishables — in a way, stopping time — but then ends up encouraging us to overbuy, and throw away, more than 30 percent of our food supply.
Learn more about the fascinating past and uncertain future of refrigeration by listening to Twilley’s conversation with FoodPrint director and “What You’re Eating” host, Jerusha Klemperer.
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Top photo by Odua Images/Adobe Stock.