Simple ways to turn kitchen scraps into delicious soups
Vogue magazine recently described Alison Roman’s new pantry cookbook, “Something from Nothing,” as the perfect guide for “money-strapped millennials” — but millennials aren’t the only ones feeling the pressure these days. As food prices have creeped ever upward and climate anxiety is at an all-time high, there’s never been a better time to root around your pantry or freezer and make something from nothing. There are many ways to approach that challenge, but when it’s sweater weather, we think soup — namely, scrap soup — is just what the season ordered. You can grab a cookbook to help you, like Roman’s, or Tamar Adler’s “An Everlasting Meal,” or the James Beard compilation “Waste Not,” but you can also just ground yourself in some principles, and wing it from there.
Scrap soup, you ask? Also known as kitchen-scrap soup, stone soup or, less appetizingly, garbage soup, it’s a soul-warming, ever-adaptable dish that makes use of the leftover food bits you stash away in the freezer or fridge. But it’s also scrappy in another sense: It borrows from the kind of creative, roll-up-your-sleeves ethos employed by generations of budget-minded cooks, who had to stretch their ingredients to make do. In this time of uncertainty and scarcity, scrap soup can actually be an edible ode to abundance. As Roman says, “abundance doesn’t mean you need 20 dishes of caviar. It’s the joy of will, a well-stocked pantry, delicious wonders.” This approach not only makes good financial sense, but it’s better for the planet. By using every part of a vegetable (or chicken or fish or piece of cheese) you’re saving it from the landfill, where it will decompose and eventually produce methane, a greenhouse gas that’s up to 86 times more powerful than carbon dioxide.
Plus, soup is a forgiving canvas — you can throw a whole bunch of stuff in a pot and still not mess it up. Read on for our best scrap soup–making tips.
Get a collection going
Just like most homes have a junk drawer for pencil stubs and bits of strings, so they should also have repositories for usable food scraps. Put two sturdy resealable bags in the freezer, designating one for meat scraps, and the other for vegetable bits (if you like, add a third bag for seafood scraps). Each time you peel an onion or carve a chicken, stash the remnants in their respective bags; when the bags are full or the mood strikes, make soup! Here’s what we like to save up:
Onion and garlic skins and ends
Corn cobs
Parmesan rinds and other hard cheese nubbins
Green herb stems
Carrot and other vegetable peels, stalks and stems
Wilted (but not slimy) greens, such as spinach and kale
Poultry carcasses and meat or poultry bones
Shrimp/crab/lobster shells and fish bones, heads and tails
Mushroom stems and trimmings
Stale bread
A few best practices
Strong vegetables
Certain vegetables are very flavorful, so can overpower a soup if used in excess. Cruciferous vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage and Brussels sprouts will give your soup a strong broccoli flavor, and can become bitter if cooked too long, so use them in moderation unless that’s the flavor you’re going for. Similarly, a whole heap of alliums — onions, garlic, leeks, etc. — will yield a strong oniony flavor: Great if you’re making an onion soup, less great if you want more subtle flavors to shine. Celery, too, can pack a wallop if you use too much, so unless you’re making a celery soup, you may want to exercise restraint.
Poultry carcasses, meat bones and seafood/fish shells and bones
Save up the pieces and parts you might not eat otherwise — skin, bones, shells, even small bits of meat — and you can use them to impart flavor and body to broths and, in turn, other soups. (More on this below.)
Don’t forget about cheese bones and mushroom bits!
Rinds of Parmesan and other hard, aged cheeses can impart umami and depth to scrap soups — especially helpful for plant-based broths. Simmer cheese rinds in the soup (even a little piece can do a lot of work) and remove them before serving. Mushroom stems also impart savory goodness; simmer and strain them out unless pureeing the soup.
Bulk it up with stale bread or leftover grains
Hold onto leftover bread crusts, cooked grains or pasta. Stale bread has long been used to thicken soups (think of two Italian classics, pappa al pomodoro and veggie-dense ribollita). Leftover cooked grains like farro, barley, and rice, or couscous or pasta, can also stretch the soup to make it more toothsome and feed a bigger crowd. Add these at the end so they retain their shape and don’t get mushy.
How to build a solid base
Soup begins, first and foremost, with a liquid. While you can use a combo of water, salt and other seasonings as the foundation for many soups, beginning with an already robust broth gives your soup a head start.
Vegetable scrap broth
Combine your collected scraps in a large, heavy pot such as a Dutch oven. Add some salt, pepper, herbs and spices and top with water to cover. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until the liquid has taken on sufficient color and the vegetables and herbs have released their flavor, 1 to 3 hours. From here, you can strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve to remove the solids, or if using as a base for a pureed soup (see below), just fish out the large, inedible chunks (like onion skins and bay leaves) before blending. Use the strained broth in soups (or to cook a big pot of beans!). Broth will keep in the fridge for three to four days or in the freezer for up to a month.
Poultry or beef broth
There are nearly infinite ways to make a basic bone broth. We like Sherri Brooks Vinton’s versatile method, or you can use the following template as your guide: Combine your bones (and in the case of poultry, also skin and carcass) — and whatever vegetable scraps you might have collected (onion, garlic, carrot and celery are good complements — some people like to roast the veg first at 400F to intensify their flavors). Place these in a large, heavy pot like a Dutch oven, add water to cover, and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat and simmer, covered but vented, for 8 to 12 hours, replenishing the water as needed, until a rich, hearty stock forms. Strain out the solids as directed above (depending on the final use for the broth, you may want to do this several times) and compost them. Store the resulting liquid gold in your fridge for a few days or freeze it for longer storage.
Note: If you have only small amounts of chicken and/or beef bones, you can combine them in a single stock; just be sure to reserve gamey bones (like lamb or venison) for their own stock because they can overpower other flavors.
Seafood or fish broth
For a simple seafood stock, the process is essentially the same: Combining a collection of crustacean shell scraps, like lobster, crab and shrimp, with aromatic vegetables, adding water to cover by about an inch, and simmering (but not boiling!) until the ingredients yield their fragrance and body. Hank Shaw at Hunter, Angler, Gardener, Cook recommends adding tomato paste to seafood stock, and uses a genius technique for straining out the solids: He freezes the liquid and then lets it defrost over a coffee filter to strain out any fat or shell-y bits. Shaw also has an easy recipe for fish stock that you can make with reserved heads, tails and bones (just be sure to remove any gills, which will spoil the broth).
Parm-bone broth
This cheesy, umami-forward broth is a great base for hearty, savory soups like minestrone, Italian wedding soup and pasta in brodo. Justine Doiron (@justinesnacks) has an excellent recipe that’s worth trying if you have a couple of generous Parm rinds stashed away.
Different scraps, different uses
From here, you can use one of the above broths as a foundation, or just start from scratch with scraps and enough liquid to cover (don’t hesitate to use packaged broth if that’s what you’ve got — this is a no-judgment zone). Here are some ideas for what to make from the broths/stocks and scraps you’ve got on hand.
Corn cobs or root vegetable scraps (such as potato and parsnip): potage, creamy corn chowder or corn and potato soup, scalloped potato soup
Onion scraps: vegetarian French onion soup, vichyssoise, onion stock
Mushroom stems: basic veg or beef stock, mushroom barley soup, Food 52’s Velvety Mushroom Soup
Poultry scraps: poultry bone broth/stock, avgolemono, classic chicken noodle soup, Chinese-inspired chicken broth
Beef bones: beef bone broth/stock, beef vegetable soup, Vietnamese beef pho
Fish/seafood scraps: fish or seafood broth, seafood bisque, fish and millet soup
Cheese rinds: minestrone, lentil soup, ribollita (also a good use for bread scraps), Roasted Garlic, Potato and Parmesan soup
Stale bread: pappa al pomodoro, pancotto, sopa Castellano, sopa de ajo
Greens and herbs: Tamar Adler’s Lettuce and Rice Soup, German green soup (aka Gründonnerstag or seven- or nine-green soup)
Broccoli/cauliflower/cabbages: broccoli and cheddar soup, curried cauliflower soup, Polish cabbage soup
Miscellaneous vegetable ends and peels (asparagus, carrots, green beans, winter squash and root veg, zucchini, etc.): Creamy Blended Vegetable Soup, Winter Root Vegetable Soup
Remember: Making scrap soup is more art than science, more play than perfection. Experiment the first time around and, depending on how you like the results, adjust as needed the next time.
Top photo by nadianb/Adobe Stock.
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