A new agritourism network connects and promotes farmers of color

by Bridget Shirvell

Published: 6/11/24, Last updated: 6/11/24

Juliana Quaresma felt called to farming. The Latinx sheep farmer, originally from northeastern Brazil, grew up with a passion for animals and the planet. She sees the agroforestry farming she practices on Viva Acres in Trumansburg, New York, as a way to produce healthy food and take care of the environment at the same time. But even with her deep connection to nature, she sometimes finds farming lonely.

“Often farmers are isolated, and that’s really hard,” Quaresma says.

In 2023, she and farmers from 10 other farms — including Stick and Stone Farm in Ithaca and Rocky Acres Community Farm in Freeville — established the Farming for Freedom Trail, an agritourism network in New York’s Finger Lakes region designed to help support and elevate marginalized farmers, diversify rural spaces and support food systems in the community.

Since 1910, Black-owned farmland in the U.S. has shrunk by an estimated 80 percent — a steep decline caused by discrimination at federal agencies, anti-Black legislation and other systemic injustices. Today, 95 percent of the country’s farms are owned by white people. In 2021, the Biden administration attempted to address racial disparities with $4 billion in targeted debt relief, but those efforts were stalled in part by lawsuits from conservative political operatives and white farmers.

Farming for Freedom aims to create networks for BIPOC farmers and give visitors a way to support diversity and racial justice in agriculture. “We’re building collaborations, uplifting others and demonstrating the work farmers are doing while connecting people to the farm and local food system,” Quaresma says.

Farm trails — agritourism networks that link farms to one another — date back at least to the 1970s, when farmers in Sonoma County, California, created a guide to local agriculture and invited people to stop by the farms, meet the farmers and learn more about the origins of their food.

“In 1973, a group of forward-thinking farmers worked with the local agricultural commissioner to create farm trails,” Carmen Snyder, executive director of Sonoma County Farm Trails, explains. “They produced a map that plotted the farm stands in the county because they wanted to connect producers to customers. There were no CSAs or farmers’ markers back then, and the distribution laws made it really hard to get local food into restaurants, so publishing a map let people know what offerings were at the farm stands.”

While there is no official count of how many exist in the U.S., Doolarie Singh-Knights, an agribusiness economics and management professor and extension specialist at West Virginia University, says that today farm and fishing trails are prevalent. “The cluster serves as a magnet. It’s going to pull people to it,” she says. “When you partner with other businesses, you create a bigger pie, meaning more visitors are coming.” There are now all types, from state and regional wine trails to seafood trails. Rarely physical trails, they are instead coalitions of similar businesses that help promote each other and create a destination for tourists, offering activities such as tastings or tours.

Lettuces in a greenhouse at Loving Farms in Candor, New York, a member of the Farming for Freedom Trail. Photo courtesy of Loving Farms.

One of the main benefits of agritourism, says Singh-Knights, is farm income diversification. “It’s often challenging for a small farm to compete,” she says, “so creating these opportunities can increase the viability of small farms, adding value to products … through experiences. And then the benefit to society in general, really, is that farm to consumer connection, or farm to food connection.”

Every farm trail is a bit different. The Farming for Freedom Trail, for instance, is set up as an annual fall event with tours of the farms. Sonoma County Farm Trails continues to publish an annual map and guide, but they also have a website and put on regular farm events. There are also several ingredient-specific trails, such as the Maine Oyster Trail, which was established in 2017; an interactive guide maps out different oyster experiences along the coast, including shucking lessons, oyster tastings and tours of oyster farms, and visitors can use a “passport” to check in at participating businesses and earn rewards.

Farm trails are marketing, sure. They create a ready-to-go day trip itinerary for community members and visitors alike, and many offer some incentive for visiting. But they can also provide farmers opportunities for learning and development, says Christa Nunez, co-owner of The Learning Farm in Ithaca, another Farming for Freedom member, and the director of Khuba International, a nonprofit that provides support for the trail. “It’s really given people the opportunity to get to know other farmers and create a vibrant network where we can share skills and create collaborations,” she says.

The founders of the Farming for Freedom Trail are hopeful that the model can also help build community and be a means of food justice.

“Having people walk on the land, having people have a respite from the day to day and see that the natural world is beautiful — I think that if people can spend time in nature, it’s the first step to wanting to partner with others who are interested in preserving the natural world for future generations,” says Debbie Branker-Livermore, who runs Loving Farms with her husband, Craig.

The couple grows organic vegetables on their 118-acre agro-forest in Candor, New York, which is named as a nod to Richard and Mildred Loving, winners of a landmark civil rights case in the 1960s that overturned a ban on interracial marriage. Debbie and Craig joined Farming for Freedom because they found themselves wanting to provide a connection to the earth along with their food while also meeting and supporting other farmers.

People gather at Loving Farms. Photo courtesy of Loving Farms.

“When you’re in a space, and you’re looking at that space all the time, we’re looking at it through our lens,” Debbie says — but after meeting other member farmers, “we had people walking around saying things to us … it gave us ideas.”

Beekeeping, for instance, wasn’t something the Branker-Livermores were familiar with, but thanks to connections made through the Farming for Freedom Trail, they realized that the plants and the acreage they had would be ideal for it.

“Just knowing that there are other people out there who are doing this … other people who are like, ‘I’m not sure how to do this. What are you doing? How are you doing this?’ Knowing that there are other people we can turn to is wonderful,” Debbie adds.

Farm trails are a lot of work; Sonoma County Farm Trails has survived for so long largely because of an annual fundraiser that helps fund all the programming, pays for marketing staff and keeps farmer membership rates at roughly $200 per year. Synder cautions that marketing is a massive part of the trail’s success.

“So much of it is finding all the channels you can between social media, having a solid website with as much information as possible, member spotlights and offerings,” Synder says. “We focus a lot on educating people about local food systems and why it’s important to support them.”

As the Farming for Freedom Trail moves into its second year, the farmers say they are looking to expand the number of farms involved, as well as the event itself, which they’re considering expanding to two full days. Better outreach — and a strategy for bringing in more visitors — is also in the plan for 2024, and the farmers themselves are also planning to do more touring of each other’s farms and collaborate further year-round.

They’ve also had other farmers reach out to them to learn about possibly setting up their own BIPOC trails around the country, a blueprint that will hopefully help support farmers of color for years to come.

Top photo: The sign for Stick and Stone Farm, a member of the Farming for Freedom Trail located in Ithaca, New York. Photo by Samarra Khaja for FoodPrint.

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