How to use leftovers to make savory pies

Personally, I can’t think of a thing not to like about leftovers. First of all, they are right there in your refrigerator waiting for you: No need to plan, shop and cook if you don’t want to. Not a lot left? That’s ok, use whatever you have as a springboard for your next meal. Even a tiny bit of something — a scoop of rice, some steamed vegetables, the bones from your roast — can be the base of a tasty dish.

But what people may really mean when they say they don’t like leftovers is that they don’t want a “less than” meal. And that is something I totally get. Who wants a lesser version of the straight-out-of-the-oven dinner they had last night? Who wants to bore their taste buds with the same meal three nights in a row? The solution is upcycling, creating subsequent meals out of — let’s not call them leftovers — but “previously cooked ingredients” (or PCIs) so they do not in the slightest resemble or taste like their former iteration.

One of my favorite tricks for disguising PCIs is to turn them into a savory pie. First of all, who doesn’t like savory pie? They are a festive treat around the holidays, but are also worth making anytime you feel particularly full on fridge bits — and then freezing for a bonus down the line when you’re low on time and want deliciousness on hand.

Recipes

Hand Pies/Empanadas

Makes about 12

Any sort of handheld, hot and toasty meal in a crust is not only tasty, it’s also beloved by the trickiest audience — wee eaters. Keep a stash of these on hand and you will always be prepared with after-school snacks, lunchbox filler or dinner on those nights when you. can’t. even. Don’t worry, they’re good for grown-ups, too.

One traditional empanada filling contains ground beef, raisins, egg and olive. You can use it as a base to riff off — or use any combination of tidbits you have on hand.

The template below can accommodate a wide range of ingredients. Feel free to substitute or add what suits you. Because these are meant to be eaten by hand, you want a filling that isn’t too juicy or saucy. Some sautéed onions with a spoonful of tomato paste and a splash of water or stock will tie everything together without getting too soupy.

Ingredients:  

For the filling

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, diced
Salt and pepper
2 cloves of garlic, diced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup water or stock
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 cups previously cooked ingredients such as chicken, ground beef or burgers, steak, pork, sausages, beans, chickpeas, lentils or vegetables of any sort, cooked by any method, in any combination, diced
1/4 to 1/2 cup flavoring ingredients such as cheese, olives, cooked eggs, capers, raisins, cooked bacon, pickled chili peppers or scallions, diced finely
2 tablespoons fresh herbs such as parsley, cilantro or dill, minced (optional)

For the wrappers

12 empanada wrappers (available in the Latin American section of the grocery store) or 1 batch of empanada dough or pie crust, prepared, rolled and cut into 6″ circles
1 egg, beaten

Method:

1. Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, season with salt and sauté until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomato paste, oregano, cumin and stock and bring to a simmer. Add previously cooked ingredients and simmer until heated through. Adjust seasoning and remove from heat. Allow to cool slightly and add flavoring ingredients and fresh herbs, if using. Allow to cool completely.
2. Preheat oven to 350 F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.
3. Arrange a wrapper or disk of dough in front of you. Spoon 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of filling into the bottom half of the disk. Moisten the inside edge of the bottom half of the disk. Fold the top half of the dough over the filling and press to seal. You can use a fork to crimp the edge, if you like. Place on the prepared cookie sheet.
4. Repeat with remaining wrappers or dough, leaving 1/2 inch of space between each. Brush with beaten egg. Use a fork to poke holes in the top of each pie to allow steam to escape.
5. Bake until the dough is golden brown, about 25 to 30 minutes.
6. Serve immediately or cool, cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days or wrap and freeze for several months.

Calzones

Makes 6 calzones

A calzone is basically a folded pizza, and you can fill it with whatever you have on hand. Because the base of tomato sauce and melted cheese is already tasty and satisfying, this is a great recipe for using up small amounts of PCIs. You can make a whole selection of calzones, each with different fillings, or combine your leftovers and make a consistent batch. Now that’s abbondanza!

Ingredients:  

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 batch pizza dough (also available in the refrigerated section of the grocery)
1 cup tomato sauce
12 ounces mozzarella cheese, diced
1 cup assorted previously cooked meat, vegetables or beans

Method: 

1. Preheat the oven to 400 F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper and brush with one tablespoon of olive oil.
2. Divide the dough into 6 portions. In the palm of your hand, roll each portion into a ball. Lightly flour your clean counter and use a rolling pin to roll out the dough into 6-inch circles.
3. Spoon a generous ounce (two tablespoons) of sauce onto the bottom half of each round. Use a spoon or small spatula to spread the sauce to within 1/4 inch of the edges of the dough. Divide the cheese between the calzones, sprinkling it over the sauce. Top with your previously cooked ingredients. Moisten the bottom edge of the dough circle with water. Fold the top of the calzone over the bottom half and press to seal, gently pressing on the ingredients to eliminate any air pockets.
4. Transfer the calzones to the cookie sheet and brush with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Cut 1 or 2 slits in the top of each to allow steam to vent.
5. Bake 15 to 20 minutes until golden brown. Serve immediately or cool, cover and refrigerate for up to five days or wrap tightly and freeze for up to three months.

Pot Pie

Pot pies are great when you want a dish that is saucy and comforting. They’re the warm, fuzzy blanket of winter meals, and a perfect foil for PCIs. While the most common ingredient in pot pie is chicken, it doesn’t need to be. The secret is a thick, creamy sauce to blanket everything in the pot: Sauce velouté, one of the five mother sauces of French cuisine and a handy technique to master. (You’ll see it used as a base for gravies, soups and more.)

This is a fairly thick velouté enriched with cream. Some nice chunks of potato give the dish heft and help thicken things up even further, so I’d add that as a staple ingredient along with a buttery crust. Outside of that, you can add what you like.

Ingredients: 

For the sauce

2 quarts dark stock (chicken, beef or vegetable to match your main ingredients)
6 tablespoons butter
1 onion, diced
½ cup flour
½ cup cream

For the pie

2 cups of assorted previously cooked meat such as chicken, turkey, beef or lamb
2 cups previously cooked vegetables (or 4 cups if you want to forgo the meat and make this a vegetarian pie)
1 pound of potatoes, peeled, cut into a 2-inch dice and par-boiled or steamed until almost tender
Salt and pepper
1 9-by-13 sheet puff pastry

Method: 

1. In a small saucepan, bring the stock to a simmer, lower the heat and keep warm.
2. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, sauté the onion in the butter over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, whisk in the flour and cook, continuing to whisk, for 3 to 5 minutes. Slowly add the stock a little at a time, whisking all the while until all of the stock is incorporated. Simmer on low for 10 minutes, stirring frequently to avoid scorching.
3. Add the previously cooked ingredients and potatoes and simmer until heated through. Transfer mixture to a 4-quart heat-proof casserole dish.
4. Preheat the oven to 375 F.
5. On a lightly floured surface, roll the puff pastry so that it is slightly bigger than the top of your casserole dish. Moisten the top of your dish with a little water. Place the pastry over the dish and press gently to seal.
6. Brush with egg and pierce the pastry in several places to allow steam to escape.
7. Place the pot pie on a cookie sheet to catch any spillover.
8. Place in the middle of the oven and bake for 30 to 40 minutes until golden brown. Allow to cool slightly before serving.

Shepherd’s Pie

This is the most prescripted of all of these upcycled pie recipes. But while it offers the least amount of room for improvisation, it uses an ingredient that we frequently have left over or can intentionally make a little extra of: mashed potatoes. Having the potatoes on hand means that this dish comes together in a flash. After just about 20 minutes of hands-on time, and then a little window to help with homework or just kick your feet up while the casserole gets to bubbling, you are set to dig in.

Ingredients: 

2 to 4 cups leftover mashed potatoes
1 egg
Salt and pepper
2 pounds ground lamb (traditional) or beef, preferably grassfed
1 onion, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup stock
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce or HP Sauce
1/2 cup frozen peas and 1/2 cup frozen corn, or 1 cup assorted leftover vegetables, finely diced
2 tablespoons butter, melted

Method: 

1. In a medium bowl, combine potatoes and egg and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
2. Preheat oven to 375 F.
3. In a medium pan, sauté lamb or beef over medium heat until well browned. Using a slotted spoon, remove the meat to a bowl.
4. Sauté the onion and carrots in the drippings until the onion is translucent and the carrot has softened, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the flour and whisk for a minute or 2 to cook off some of the raw flour taste. Add the tomato paste and whisk to combine. Slowly add the stock, whisking constantly until smooth. Add the thyme and Worcestershire or HP and stir.
5. Return the meat to the pot and add the vegetables. Simmer for 5 minutes to defrost any frozen vegetables and allow the flavors to blend.
6. Transfer the mixture to a 3-quart casserole. Spoon the potato mixture on top and smooth to an even thickness. Create a crosshatch pattern in the potatoes by first scraping a fork across the top vertically and then horizontally. Drizzle the melted butter over the potatoes.
7. Place the casserole on a cookie sheet and place in the middle of the oven. Bake until browned and bubbling, about 20 minutes. Cool for 5 to 10 minutes and serve.