Six unusual greens to try

Time was, greens meant salad and salad meant iceberg — and thankfully, times have changed. These days, you’re just as likely to encounter fluffy, frilly-edged lettuces and toothsome, hardy-leaved bunches alongside those taut heads of iceberg. And if you’re willing to dabble, you’ll be richly rewarded: unusual greens — the ones you may have seen at market but that haven’t yet made it to your kitchen table — offer a variety of flavors, textures, and health benefits, and have nearly countless applications. You may be intrigued by vegetables with names like purslane, nettles or fenugreek, and as tempted to try them as you are intimidated by where to start. Turns out unusual greens can be as user-friendly and approachable as their more quotidian counterparts. As Becky Selengut, chef and author of “Misunderstood Vegetables” notes, they’re also as flexible: “You can eat them raw or cooked, use them in salads, stir-fries and smoothies… So many of these vegetables are delicious, and once you learn how to use them, you’ll be diversifying your palate…which is good for your health and makes life more interesting.”

Ready to dive in? We’ve rounded up some worthy unusual greens to try.

Amaranth

If you’ve spent much time in your supermarket grain aisle, you’ve probably seen amaranth shelved next to the millet and quinoa. But like quinoa, amaranth is in fact a seed, and the leaves that grow from these seeds are nutritious and delicious. There are numerous varieties of the hardy plant, which tend to thrive in warm weather and grow, well, like weeds — you’ll find them everywhere from manicured gardens to cracks in parking lot pavements all over the world, from India to Southeast Asia, from Greece to the United States. When cooked, it’s a versatile gal Friday: the slightly sweet and nutty leaves can be stewed into an Indian saag paneer in place of spinach, enjoyed in any of the many varieties of Caribbean callaloo, wilted into pasta, tossed into a salad, or stir-fried with ginger and other aromatics. You can buy this vitamin- and mineral-packed green at the farmers’ market or, if you’re lucky, at a well-stocked grocer. If you wish to grow (or forage) your own, harvest the tender young leaves before the plant has gone to flower, which renders the leaves tougher and more bitter. (Note that the word “green” can be something of a misnomer here, since some varieties blush red and purple at their centers.)

Claytonia (winter purslane)

Fenugreek (methi) leaves

Fenugreek teas and supplements are common at health food stores — they’re believed to have medicinal properties—but the clover-like leaves add an ineffable quality to curries and braises. While the leaves can be used as a supporting player like other fresh or dried herbs (think oregano and basil), fenugreek/methi is just as comfortable in a leading role. In Middle Eastern, Indian and North African kitchens, fresh methi leaves often stand in for other robust greens like mustard and spinach (the dried leaves are called kasoori methi). Samarra Khaja, FoodPrint’s Art Director, adds: “When I can get my hands on methi leaves, I do; an Indian or Persian grocery store usually has the best options, from fresh to dried. Although it’s hard to describe their impact, they add an elevated layer to curry dishes, and you can tell the difference [between] with versus without. They usually get added toward the end of cooking. If you’re new to [methi], Khushbu Shah’s “Amrikan” cookbook has great recipes that include it; plus, she stresses you consider having fenugreek as a staple in your pantry if you want to really maximize flavors.” Fresh methi greens are nutty, with a subtle fennel flavor and a bitterness that intensifies during cooking (which some people temper by salting the leaves beforehand).

Lamb’s lettuce (mâche)

Lamb’s lettuce often appears on farm-to-table and high-end restaurant menus as mâche. At the farmer’s’ market, you may have seen it in piles of deep grassy green and labeled as corn salad, so named because it’s typically planted after the corn harvest. Whatever the name, these supple, nutty-sweet leaves are a worthy addition to your salad bowl. Delicate yet toothsome, and delicious eaten raw, mâche is a common salad ingredient in Europe. Journalist Rana Good, who grew up in Switzerland and is the founder of Naïra, a digital magazine for women of color, reminisced about the greens, saying, “Lamb’s lettuce is called Nüsslisalat in Switzerland and it’s probably the most popular Swiss salad. It’s served with bacon, egg and croutons topped with a French dressing in restaurants, and also a favorite salad in Swiss households. I always eat this salad when I go back home.” Lamb’s lettuce is a cut-and-come again winter crop, rewarding gardeners throughout the cold season. Whether you grow it yourself or spot it at a farmers’ market, consider layering it under rich toppings like avocado, goat cheese and candied pecans, or dressing it simply with a perky vinaigrette.

Nettles

Purslane

With a name so evocative of Shakespearean fairydom, it’s hard to imagine that purslane is often considered a weed. Don’t let that deter you from trying it. This unusual succulent is loaded with vitamins, minerals and omega-3s (plus enough beta-carotene to give carrots a run for their money). It boasts a bright, lemony tang that’s somewhat reminiscent of sorrel, and that plays well with (or can sub for) watercress and arugula. You can fold it into omelets, use it raw in soups, salads and pestos, or sauté it gently in salted butter. Purslane is a familiar ingredient in Mediterranean, Latin American and Middle Eastern cuisines. Oset Babür-Winter, Senior Drinks Editor at Food & Wine, who spent summers growing up in Istanbul, notes, “Purslane is really common in Turkey… My favorite preparation involves making a cold salad with yogurt and cucumbers with a bed of purslane… It’s so much more interesting in flavor and texture than arugula or kale.” If you see purslane at the market — or in your yard — snag a bunch and start experimenting. You’ll want to trim off the roots, then rinse the stems and leaves well to remove any grit.

On the selection, care and storage of unusual greens (as well as usual ones)

Lettuces and other delicate greens, such as sorrel and watercress, are fragile and should be selected and handled with care. At the market, seek out crisp leaves that look bright and pliable (those that are tough, drying out or feathering brown at the edges may be bitter). From here, proceed with a light touch: As doyenne of vegetarian cooking Deborah Madison notes in her masterwork “Vegetable Literacy,” “Lettuces are tender creatures and they cry for gentle handling. Twist the leaves off at the base and you’ll soon see many dark lines indicating bruises running up from the bottom of the leaves. Instead, slice off the base and let the leaves fall open.”  Leafy lettuces and other “tender creatures” should be stored loosely wrapped in a clean kitchen towel or paper towel in a partially opened zip-top bag. They will keep for a few days; discard any greens that have become slimy or have an off smell.

Heartier greens, such as collards, Swiss chard, mustard greens and escarole, usually need to be softened in some way — whether by braising, sautéing, or another form of cooking — or else massaged, as in the case of raw kale. When shopping, Mangini recommends choosing “vibrant, fresh-looking greens that are not wilted, shriveled, yellowing, or separating from their stalks.” Once home, wrap the leaves loosely in a damp paper towel and store them, leafy ends down, in an open bag in the refrigerator.

As with most produce (don’t worry, mushrooms, we’re not talking about you), be sure to rinse greens before you use them. Madison recommends “wash[ing] lettuce well but gently to rid it of any grit residing at the base of the leaves. Dry it thoroughly so that it doesn’t spoil when stored or dilute your dressing when dressed.” Mangini, for her part, suggests a “Dunk-and-Shake Method”: After separating stems from leaves, submerge them in a bowlful of cold water and agitate to remove sand and dirt. Both chefs favor washing just before use and drying well (since damp greens want to become slimy greens). Generally speaking, you’ll want to use greens right away. Hardy greens tend to outlast their more delicate counterparts, but don’t sit on any of them for too long. Like cut flowers, greens are freshest when used as close to harvest as possible.

Top photo by Henk/ Adobe Stock