During a period of egg chaos, egg replacements for (almost) any situation

Whether you begin each day with them, use them occasionally or don’t eat them at all, eggs seem to be top of mind for most of us lately, with record-breaking prices and regional shortages happening around the country. As we’ve explored in the past, there are a lot of factors that determine egg prices — feed costs, retailer margins and markups from the wholesalers — and all of these have gone up in recent years thanks to inflation and other changes in the economy. But one new factor is impacting egg prices like never before: bird flu.

Avian influenza, or H5N1, used to come and go as a seasonal outbreak in the U.S. But that changed in 2022, when a new strain of bird flu didn’t die down over the summer as usual. That strain has been circulating continuously since then, passing between wild birds and poultry flocks and leading to the death of at least 153 million birds that have either perished from the virus or been culled to prevent its spread. It’s also made worrying inroads with mammals, showing up in marine mammals and cats before becoming widespread in dairy cows. So far, this outbreak has killed one person and sickened at least 67 people, mostly farmworkers who had contact with infected birds or cows. And while it doesn’t seem to have mutated to spread between people yet, scientists warn that possibility is growing ever more likely the longer the virus circulates.

When it comes to “structure building,” eggs serve numerous functions: adding density and body, providing lift, thickening and emulsifying, glazing and gluing … the list goes on. Eggs are foundational components of a panoply of dishes: tender cakes and cookies, creamy custards and unctuous sauces, fluffy yeast breads and fluffier meringues. While a shortage might seem to spell doom for these egg-reliant foods, enterprising cooks who’ve eschewed the ovoids — whether for dietary or ethical reasons — know that nature offers plenty of clever alternatives.

Egg replacement recipes

Note: Given eggs’ versatility, finding a one-size-fits-all replacement isn’t an easy task. Each of the following recipes should be treated as a general guideline: You may need to experiment a bit to find the replacement that works best — and yields the desired results — in a particular dish. A helpful rule of thumb: When a recipe includes its own egg replacement suggestions, best to follow its lead (the recipe developer will have tested several variations so you don’t have to!).

Aquafaba

Also known as “bean liquid,” aquafaba is — quite literally — the liquid that results when beans are cooked in water. It has a viscous, slippery (some say “slimy”) texture that can approximate egg whites in baked goods. Most aquafaba fans prefer chickpea water — whether drained from a can or from a pot — because its flavor is more delicate and less “beany” than that produced by cooking other beans and pulses. Serving a function similar to egg whites, aquafaba can be whipped to semi-stiff or stiff peaks with an electric mixer, or used unwhipped as a binder or emulsifier.

To make it: Drain the liquid from a can of chickpeas through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any solids. The liquid should have about the same consistency as an egg white; if it doesn’t, simmer it in a small saucepan until it has thickened and reduced. (Note: Some cooks like to chill and/or vigorously shake the canned chickpeas first to thicken the liquid before straining.) If you would like to use cooking liquid from homemade chickpeas, you may need to reduce it on the stovetop to achieve the right consistency; let cool before using.

For 1 whole egg, use ¼ cup aquafaba

For 1 egg white, use 2 tablespoons aquafaba

Depending on the recipe, add the aquafaba as is or whip it with an electric mixer into semi-stiff or stiff peaks. To stabilize whipped aquafaba, some people recommend adding cream of tartar at a ratio of 1 teaspoon cream of tartar to every 8 tablespoons of aquafaba. Fold in the whipped aquafaba wherever you would the egg/egg whites.

Best uses: Pavlovas and meringues (these can be toasted with a kitchen torch!), mousses and frostings, layer cakes and brownies, brioche and other yeast breads and even vegan marshmallow fluff

Chia or flax seed egg

If you’ve ever made homemade chia pudding, you know how mucilaginous the tiny seeds are. When combined with water, the seeds absorb the liquid and expand, forming a thick, gel-like mixture. Now imagine this mixture stirred into batters and doughs, and you have an idea of what a chia egg can do.

Flax eggs serve the same function, but they are made with flax seeds instead of chia. Flax can be easier to find than chia in some markets, and also tends to be more affordable.

Both chia and flax seeds are highly nutritious, promoting heart health and digestion, among other benefits. They’re also some of the best-available plant sources of omega-3s.

Whichever type of seed you choose, these egg replacements generally work best in recipes where regular eggs serve to bind ingredients and impart moisture (rather than aerate or add volume). Note: The omega-3s and other fats in ground flax and chia seeds go rancid pretty quickly, so aim to grind them yourself and portion out only what you will use right away; if making a large volume, store the ground seeds in the freezer.

To make it: Grind 1 tablespoon chia or flax seeds in a clean coffee grinder until just broken down (be careful not to overgrind or they’ll turn gooey). Place the ground seeds in a small bowl, add 3 tablespoons of cold water and stir to combine. The chia egg will thicken up right away; let the flax egg chill in the refrigerator until thickened, about 5 minutes. Substitute for 1 egg.

Best uses: Waffles and pancakes, dense cakes and quick breads, muffins, brownies and bars, cinnamon rolls [Editor’s note: Some recipes call for stirring the whole or ground seeds directly into the batter. Follow the instructions for best results.]

Psyllium egg

You may know psyllium husk as the soluble fiber in a popular digestion aid — but it is also useful in the kitchen. The same properties that give chia and flax seeds their egg-mimicking abilities apply here: When combined with water, psyllium husks become gelatinous and thick, approximating the texture of a raw egg white. These ground seeds, which come from a shrub-like herb called Plantago ovata, work as a binding agent in baked goods (as well as in loafs and patties: think veggie burgers). They can also emulate the chewy texture of gluten, making psyllium husk powder a popular substitute among people who are steering clear of both chicken eggs and gluten. Be sure to use the powder and not whole seeds (they won’t work the same) and note that psyllium has a somewhat nutty flavor that pairs well with other similarly toasty-tasting ingredients.

To make it: Combine 1 teaspoon psyllium husk powder and 3 tablespoons of water in a small bowl. Stir together and let thicken before using. Alternatively, one manufacturer of the powder suggests you can stir it directly into the dry ingredients of a recipe, using a teaspoon for every egg called for in the recipe. In this scenario, they also recommend adding “about three tablespoons of water or milk when you add the wet ingredients.” Substitute for 1 egg.

Best uses: Yeast breads and pizza doughs, brownies, cookies, muffins and cakes

Other options

There are numerous ingredients that can stand in for eggs in certain dishes, though some experimentation may be required. The best guideline is to match the egg replacement to the intended purpose of the egg, whether it’s to add moisture, height, and so on.

Mashed ripe banana, avocado, pumpkin puree or applesauce: Use ¼ cup for each egg. Best for adding moisture.

Milk (dairy or coconut): Use ¼ cup to approximate 2 eggs. Best for adding moisture and a chewy texture to cookies (without the risk of undercooked eggs!).

Tofu: Puree silken tofu in a blender until smooth. Use ¼ cup pureed tofu for each egg. Best for adding density to baked goods, and creaminess to soups and sauces (such as hollandaise and aioli), mousses and puddings, cheesecakes, quiches and ice creams.

Yogurt or buttermilk (dairy or nondairy): Use ¼ cup for each egg. Best for adding tenderness to muffins and cakes.

If you’re seeking additional egg replacers that are not exclusively vegetarian, here is a helpful list compiled by the College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences at University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign.

Top photo courtesy of Mara Willard.