From Kimchi to Sauerkraut, Fermented Vegetables Have Gone from Taboo to Wellness Darling

When I was growing up in the 80s and 90s, the word “fermented” prompted scrunched noses, sickly frowns and gagging. Synonyms might as well have been “putrid” or “gross” — conjuring old, decaying food matter that was past its prime yet eaten primarily out of necessity. “Bacteria” didn’t have a health halo, either. Of course, fermentation was the genesis of so many of our foods, from soy sauce to pickled mustard greens, which were amongst the most common examples in my mother’s Chinese-American kitchen. I recall a group of construction workers in my house when I was younger, who probably thought no one else could hear when they incredulously read the label on a jar of fermented black bean garlic sauce, an umami-boosting paste stirred into dishes like beef with broccoli. Only, it had that word “fermented” in its name. They doubled over in laughter — the stuff sounded too disgusting to believe.

Lacto-Fermentation: A Vegetable’s Best Friend

A fermentation process that is well associated with vegetables is lacto-fermentation — where the bacteria lactobacillus produces lactic acid in the food. This beneficial bacteria is naturally occurring in many vegetables, and the typical process of lacto-fermenting involves little more than salting the vegetable and letting it soak, unrefrigerated, in its own juices. After a few days, the liquid will begin to bubble and take on a sour, funky flavor in addition to the saltiness. The result — often called a pickle — serves as a complement to rich, hearty foods, and helps you digest them. Here are a few examples of lacto-fermented vegetables from around the world.

Sauerkraut: Cabbage, salted and pressed, becomes wonderfully pungent after fermentation kicks in. Sauerkraut is a vital part of culinary traditions in much of Europe, especially in Germany, where this name derives. There are annual sauerkraut-making festivals in communities throughout the US as well. Cabbages (and their brassica family members, like cauliflower and Brussels sprouts) are tough, hardy vegetables that tend to ferment easily when shredded. Red or green cabbage can be used, and sparse seasonings, such as caraway seeds, might be added to the ferment. 

Kimchi: In Korea, cabbage (typically the thick-ribbed napa cabbage variety) is mixed with a few more seasonings along with salt — namely, garlic, ginger and gochugaru, or Korean chile flakes. This turns the resulting lacto-fermented brine bright red, although it wasn’t that way until the introduction of chiles from the New World a few hundred years ago. Before then, kimchi was white (which you can still find available now). Either way, it’s used plentifully in Korean cuisine, served on its own or simmered into soups and stews.

Suen Cai: Meaning “sour vegetable” in Chinese, this is made from greens — often mustard greens — that have been lacto-fermented. The varietal of mustard greens that is typically used has a bulbous stem and thick stalks; these sections retain a crisp bite as they ferment. It’s all chopped up so there’s a contrast of deep green leaves and crunchy stems in each scoopful, which can be stirred into stir-fries, cradled in a steamed bun, scattered atop a bowl of noodles or just enjoyed on the side of a meal as a refreshing complement.

Achaar: Also known as Indian pickle or South Asian pickle, achaar is a category of fermented foods that can be made with many types of vegetables and fruits, such as limes and unripe mangoes, along with many seasonings, such as mustard and chile powder. Eggplant or brinjal pickle is one classic variety that makes a great side or condiment for hearty dishes like lamb, or it can play more of a starring role topping rice and yogurt for a quick meal.

Preserved Lemon: Throughout the Middle East and North Africa, preserved lemons are a crucial flavoring agent for many dishes, like Moroccan chicken tagine. These citrus fruits grow wild and are naturally antibacterial, making them great candidates for preserving. The lemons are typically nearly halved lengthwise then nearly quartered, so that they still hold together, then they’re rubbed with salt. As they ferment, the rinds soften in texture and deepen in flavor; it’s the chopped rind that you add to dishes like tagines or pilafs, lending a refreshing piquancy. 

Kosher Dills: Cucumbers can be challenging for the beginning pickler, as they’re not as dense or firm as some of the other vegetable candidates. But they’re one of the most popular fermented foods in the US, where Jewish immigrants kept up the tradition with their signature garlic and dill seasonings. (Though they’re known as Kosher dills in the US thanks to that legacy, cucumbers that are lacto-fermented are enjoyed throughout the rest of the world, too.) To make them, cucumbers with smaller seed pockets, such as Kirby, are submerged in a salt water brine along with garlic, dill and other seasonings like peppercorns. They’re typically enjoyed as a side or snack—like beside a pastrami sandwich.

Top photo by Deb/Adobe Stock.